EU restricts the use of Kojic Acid in cosmetic products
All you need to know as a cosmetic formulator and/or beauty brand owner ⬇️
Kojic Acid and its role in skincare
I will call this ingredient - one of the top ones appearing in social media. With over 108 million views of #kojicacid on TikTok and 70 million views of #kojicacidsoap, this compound is a real deal.
Originating in Japan, Kojic Acid is formed as a by-product during the fermentation of malting rice (this rice is used in the manufacture of sake - Japanese rice wine). It is effective as a skin lightening ingredient and helps to brighten its uneven tone. Kojic Acid acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor by blocking the synthesis of melanin - the skin pigment.
Kojic Acid as a cosmetic ingredient
In the production of leave-on products, such as face and hand creams, Kojic Acid is usually used in concentrations of 0.1% to 2.0%. Although there are some products with higher concentrations, even up to 4%.
Kojic Acid is unstable, and that's its huge disadvantage
Once exposed to oxygen or sunlight, a mixture containing Kojic Acid becomes brown and loses its efficacy. Same in the presence of metal ions. Kojic Acid chelates metal ions, causing the mixture to change its color from white to brown or yellow.
Far from being perfect - what are the concerns about Kojic Acid?
According to the opinion of SCCS, Kojic Acid interferes with the uptake and biodistribution of iodine disturbing thyroid function. And this has led to major suspicions about its endocrine-disrupting properties.
As SCCS concluded in its final opinion, there is a potential risk to human health arising from the use of Kojic Acid in cosmetic products. However this risk appears when its concentration in the final formula becomes higher than 1%.
Kojic Acid and new EU restrictions
➡️ Based on the opinion of SCCS from 15-16 March 2022, the European Commission decided to limit the use of Kojic Acid as a skin lightening ingredient in face and hand products with a maximum concentration of 1 %.
➡️ Until April 2024, this compound was not regulated under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. And that means that with this restriction the list of ingredients covered by Annex III* has been extended to include this particular substance.
*Annex III (List Of Substances Which Cosmetic Products Must Not Contain Except Subject To The Restrictions Laid Down)
What are the deadlines?
🗓️1 February 2025 - since this day, any cosmetic products that contain Kojic Acid and are not complying with this restriction shall not be placed on the EU market.
🗓️1 November 2025 - from this day, any cosmetic products that include Kojic Acid and are not compliant with this restriction shall not be made available for EU consumers.
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References
Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996 of 3 April 2024 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the use of Vitamin A, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin and certain substances with potential endocrine disrupting properties in cosmetic products
SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), scientific opinion on Kojic acid, preliminary version of 26-27 October 2021, final version of 15-16 March 2022, Corrigendum of 10 June 2022, SCCS/1637/21
https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/beauty/what-new-rules-for-kojic-acid-mean-for-skincare-brands
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