Retinol & new amendment to the EU Cosmetics Regulation

A revolution in the use of vitamin A in skincare - a short summary of a new amendment to the EU 1223/2009 Cosmetics Regulation

There are a few things that remind me of autumn. One of them is this all-present marketing of retinol-based products. 

Vitamin A is definitely the queen of autumn 🍁, but it looks like the near future will bring a huge revolution to the use of this ingredient in skin care. 

And all because of the new amendment to EU 1223/2009 Regulation 📝 

What was the problem and why SCCS was so interested in vitamin A? 🤔

The biggest issue was the overall exposure to retinol and its derivatives, especially for consumers who are daily exposed to vitamin A found in food and dietary supplements. Like any chemical compound, vitamin A is safe to use but only at certain concentrations. 

The role of vitamin A in skincare

🌟 Being more precise, vitamin A is not one type of chemical. This term rather covers a group of chemically-related compounds - Retinol, Retinal, Retinoic Acid and their ester derivatives. All of them are skincare (or drug in the case of Retinoic Acid) ingredients well-known for their skin conditioning effects. 

🌟 Vitamin A promotes cell turnover, providing a desirable anti-aging effect and reduction of the fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it blocks the destruction of collagen and helps in the treatment of acne. 

🌟 Vitamin A is also the most popular cosmetic ingredient on Social Media. There is no other compound that generates as much attention and views like Retinol and its “team”.

Let's take a look at new restrictions on the use of vitamin A in cosmetic products.

⚠️ First of all, if you are planning to use vitamin A in its ester form, the concentrations should be recalculated into the Retinol Equivalent (RE).

⚠️ Compounds like Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Acetate will be allowed at maximum concentration of 0.05% RE in body lotions and 0,3% RE in other leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products. 

🗓️ Timeline

Regulation 2024/966 entered into force on April 24, 2024

🗓️ How much time is left to adapt to the new restrictions?

November 1, 2025 - that's the first key date for all cosmetic manufacturers and brands. From that date, placing any products containing Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate or Retinyl Acetate and not meeting the above restrictions will be banned. 

In addition, from May 1, 2027 products containing these ingredients and not complaining the restrictions will be not available on the EU market.

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